I created this blog to keep tabs on by build and to share with the automotive community. Enjoy.

MODIFICATIONS

Blacktop 20v with T3 water kit and tweak'd cop harness
100mm and 50mm Sam-Q stacks with Pipercross filter
Poly Bushings
Techna-fit brake lines
Countless OEM wear parts
Fortune Auto Coilovers 8/6kg
T3 NRCA's
T3 "tall" short shifter
Cusco transmission mount
JDM kouki corner lights (fender)
No-name Strut Bar
Spin turn knob
Slotted Rotors with OEM or Hawk pads
TRD 4.778 Final Drive with T3 rebuilt kouki LSD
Various wheels. Current:
Hoshino Impul 14x8.5 -20
Rays Volk Mesh 14x8 -0?
Custom under diff exhaust
NST brake master cylinder stopper
NST steering lock spacer on aw11 rebuilt rack w/ t3 adapter
Sparco steering wheels with Boss hub and T3 billet extender
TRD shift knob
Momo Corse fixed back bucket seat
Tint 20%
Solex "twin cam series" locks
Fiberblass +25mm Fenders


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pizotchi86@gmail.com

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Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Blacktop 20v Swap Check List With Prices

There are already a few 20v blacktop swap lists out there. Figured I would contribute my idea of a "complete" list. The sections written in yellow are the routes I chose to go.

Blactop 20v engine ($1200 - 1500)
   -With or without harness depending on wiring decisions
   -With all sensors, distributor, coil, and igniter 
   -Did I mention all sensors; O2, IAT, TPS, MAP, etc.


Wiring (cheap - $550)
   -Make custom using 20v harness
   OR
   -Have somewhere like Tweak'd Performance make you a new plug and play harness ($550)

Convert cooling system one of these ways: ($50 - $690)
   -Convert to 16v flow by making a custom kit ($50-100)
   -Convert to 16v flow using Sam-Q's kit which can be bought through Battle Garage or similar  ($355 + source some hoses)
   -Retain 20v flow using a water line kit from T3 ($690) or SP-Tech (If available $550) (Don't do this - See later water kit install post for explanation)

Distributor Issue (free-$550)
   -Hammer firewall or cut and weld a box in it for the distributor to fit (free)
   -Buy a relocation kit from Sam-Q or similar ($550)
   -Run a waste spark system which you can wire in or have Tweak'd do for you. This allows you to run coil packs from a newer Toyota on the stock blacktop ECU. I am using 1zz COP's from a 2008 Corolla. Note you will still need your coil and ignitor for the signals.
(wiring from tweak'd $50) (coil packs $180-300) (Dist cover $90 at Battle Garage or make your own)
Some purists don't think a waste spark is proper, but many have run it with no problems. In my opinion it is a clean and cheap solution to the distributor issue. Plus it's just cool.

Fuel Line (free - $90)
 -Make one using one half of your 16v fuel line and the other half of your 20v fuel line. 
-Get Earl's fittings and stainless hose. Summit Racing had everything: two -6an banjo fittings, 3ft of -6an SS hose, and a fuel pressure gauge that mounts into the top of the fuel filter ($90) Here are the part numbers for all the fuel line parts needed:
807691ERL
RUS-640700                                                         
SUM-230603 
SUM-800160        

Other Stuff (some optional)
   -OEM 20v gasket kit ($250)

   -Timing belt ($38-100) Hydraulic tensioner ($74 from Battle Garage) Tensioner pulley ($78) I used an OEM belt, tensioner and pulley. It is crucial to replace these parts as the blcktop is an interference engine. Many people convert to a 16v pulley, but this requires a 16v oil pump, water pump, etc. I figure the engine came stock with the hydraulic set up so it should be fine.
    
   -OEM 16v Pilot bearing and throwout bearing ($30-50)

   -Clutch kit of some kind ($90-300)

   -Engine mounts ($100) if needed. I used OEM mounts for more vibration dampening 
   
   -Transmission mount ($80) if needed. I used a Cusco mount for more stiffness on the driveshaft

   -Rear Main Seal (Might as well do it while you're in there) ($20)

   -Electric fan set up, unless you run a 16v style water kit. The 20v waterpump isn't strong enough to support a clutch fan and is known to break. ($50-100) Tweak'd performance wired in a relay for me that runs off of the stock coolant temp sensor.

   -O2 sensor. use either the 20v one or an o2 from a 1993 mr2 non-turbo will work too) ($60-100)

   -Coolant Toyota Red coolant is best ($28)

   -Transmission Fluid Redline mT-90 is what i use ($30)

   -Engine Oil and Filter ($25-60)

   -Fuel filter ($25)

   -Coil on plug plate (custom =cheap) (Performance Options has one for about $90)

   -A couple custom mounts for the IAC valve and the MAP (free - $30)


Did I forget anything? Please let me know.


*

6 comments:

  1. Hi Marcus, a rather comprehensive guide and thanks for the mention. The only extra thing I thought of that was missing was the addition of a rear wheel drive compatible rear engine hook. Other than that a few extra notes I thought I would add in case it helped:

    Running simultaneous fire individual coils on the original ECU can be problematic, I have had quite a few customers who have tried such a set up which resulted in misfiring issues. Others seem to have no issue. However either way it will shorten the life of the coils due to a lack of cool down time. If someone can get cheap coils and they get it to run properly then it can indeed be a really easy way out.

    The "original water flow" with a 20V stems from a common misconception of how their cooling systems work between the different heads. I get this one a lot. With the exception of one very obscure conversion that requires a core plug to be knocked out of the front or the head and a new water outlet fitted there all other types of cooling kits have the same flow arrangement in terms of cooling. The only difference in kits from types such as my own and RS-Chita compared to the external pipe type is the reversal of flow through a single port. This channel is the one under the intake and sits off the edge of the block, it doesn't actually have any cooling function other that to move the water from the back to the front of the engine and doesn't have any holes going from the block into it. The reason why it's there is because the 4age engines started as rear wheel drive and when converted to front wheel drive down the track they had to have the water outlet pipe/hose from around to the back of the engine right around to the front of the car. The 20V and 4/7AFE heads where altered to optomise them in a traverse layout. I have also heard people complain of serious difficulty in getting the air locks out of the kits that use the external pipes due to the water being made to go down before up. I have not personally seen it first hand though as those type of cooling kits are rare here.

    Nothing to do with the engine conversion but in regard to the the negative roll center adjusters. Unless it's because of something like brake clearances or class rules it's always better to run longer control arms and conventional roll center adjuster spacers. This is due to the fact that offset roll center adjusters / AKA NRCA make the scrub radius angles worse, the result being things such as increased brake steer. This is why modern cars have quite positive offset wheels and why the TRD built AE86 have custom lower control arms and mounts to hold the pivot as close to the brake disk as possible. I am unsure if you guys received them in your country- we commonly use the Corona XT130 and early Corolla lower control arms with the steer limit stops cut off. This is due to being a bolt in part but with about 15mm more length per side than original. This gives about -1.5 degree of camber pending on various factors.

    Anyway as always I am happy to be corrected or otherwise hear yours or anyone else thoughts.

    -Sam.Q
    SQ Engineering

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    Replies
    1. Sam.Q, Great to see you reading my blog! Most respect.

      At this point, after having the 20v for more than a year, I think my post could use a revision. I will try and get to that considering this post still gets more views than the rest of my blog.

      Yes, I am aware of the issues with waste spark. There is also the argument that the wasted sparks (3/4 of them) draw less power due to the lack of ignition on those sparks. All I know is, it was cheaper than a distributor relocation kit, and it's working for me! It also gets rid of some maintenance parts of the stock ignition system. And it can be argued that it makes the engine run cleaner (burning all unburned fuel), I passed emissions with flying colors, better than the 16v.

      As far as the "water flow" topic, I just call it 16v flow because it flows into the head at the front instead of the back of the head. In hindsight I wish I had used your kit instead of T3's. T3's kit was twice as expensive and caused me a ton of fitment issues with the heater hoses, and it is very prone to leaks. However, I haven't had any issues bleeding the cooling system with this setup.

      Thanks for the info on the NRCA's. I need to re-build my suspension at this point anyway. Been driving on this TRD suspension for 8 years and it needs love.

      Keep up the good work Sam.

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    3. Thanks for the kind words.

      My own articles are years out of date and it's one of many things I wish to address once they are finished being ported to my new site and I get a chance.

      You might find it interesting that if all goes well I will be announcing the release of my type 3 cooling kit for the 20V late next week. This is a big change not only from my previous kits but also the other models on the market.

      So much to do and so little time eh!

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  2. I would strongly advise against the hydraulic tensioner. I got a mechanical tensioner from MRP and it's the best thing I've bought besides Sam's 50mm stacks. There is also a guy that sells a cheaper version from ireland but the MRP one is a quality piece.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for the advice, I've seen these before. During the heat of the swap I just wanted to renew what was there.

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